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Thread: My Argento 360

  1. #111
    milkshaker0007's Avatar
    milkshaker0007 is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Nice work Mike

  2. #112
    Mike01606's Avatar
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    Default My Argento 360

    Quote Originally Posted by milkshaker0007 View Post
    Nice work Mike[emoji106]
    Cheers Paul....

    Moving on....Pretty much there now and ready to start up before fitting the bumper etc

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    Iíve painted the CV boot and F1 power unit heat shields with high temp aluminium paint.
    They CV shields were rubbing on the cats so I put a couple of washers under the upper mount so they cleared them.

    F1 shield fitted but I have a plan for this [emoji106]

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    I topped the engine oil up putting 9.5 litres in. I drained 10 out, l so Iíll top up when warm. Far easier to top up than take out!

    The gearbox is a bit tricky and easier to fill with the airbox off using a funnel and piece of tube.
    Iím trying Eni Rotra LSX 75w-90 GL5 this time.

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    Again I always measure what I take out and for the gearbox it was almost 3 litres.
    I didnít take a pic of the filler which has a dipstick attached but measuring the level with the cap resting on the opening it was full after 2.3 litres.

    I suspected it takes a while for the oil to flow into the galleries so waited 10 minutes and sure enough it took 3 litres to fill it and the level to stay stable. So be careful of under-filling the box.

    I wrapped the underside of the airbox with gold heat shield wrap (shamelessly copied from Mark S).

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    I normally like to keep things fairly standard but a satin black airbox above the cats and In front of the silencer makes no sense at all and the gold is barely visible once installed.
    This and the re-insulated silencer should reduce the engine bay temps and heat soak.

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    Ready to run....I just need to frig the rear lights to reset the gearbox fault (brake light input caused by no rear lamps. The issue that stopped Sy in the middle of London).

    Just need a dry day to roll it out and fire up. Fingers crossed....

    Iíve been reflecting on doing this.
    The standard time for a clutch change is 10-12 hours which is going some and this is hard physical work.
    I spent my first 9 years working as a technician but the 28 since as a desk jockey and Iíve forgot how hard this type of work is....
    Last edited by Mike01606; 07-02-2018 at 11:47 PM.

  3. #113
    MalcH's Avatar
    MalcH is offline Post whore with no life, no friends, and a problem fitting into normal social circles Club Member
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    Superb Mike . I wish I had the space and patience. Just deliberating whether to change my own engine oil or send it to R&D

    Merc needs an oil change and such aswell. Just passed an MOT and I only did the rear brakes and discs, I left the serious stuff (broken coil spring) and a simple but faffy track rod end to the garage.
    It needs oil and three of the drop links replacing (one was done by the garage).

    I'm getting less enthusiastic and more cold than ever doing it myself

  4. #114
    Mike01606's Avatar
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    Default My Argento 360

    Cheers Malc,

    Iíve built the challenge grill back up tonight....
    Iíve mixed feelings about these. I like them on my car and the greys as I like the two tone monochrome look but think the red cars look better with the coloured coded light panel.

    When I removed it, it already had a sheared stud so I repaired it the same way as Iíd done the heat shield mounts.

    Broken stud
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    Protect & cut back
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    Pilot drill
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    Drill and tap
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    Button headed bolt, locktited in.
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    The prancing horsey is a bit cheap when you remove it...my daughter said the same when she came in. Lightweighting me thinks [emoji4]

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    After a clean-up I refitted the lights. The inners have been replaced relatively recently, the outers I bought new from Stratstone.
    These are still a [relative] bargain part from Ferrari and the old ones went on eBay.
    I wouldnít want to buy a 488 one though....I canít see them being 100 quid

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    Finished and ready to go back on tomorrow [emoji106]

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    Last edited by Mike01606; 08-02-2018 at 11:35 PM.

  5. #115
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    Nice to log on and get my fix! The car looks in fine fettle, Mike.

  6. #116
    Mike01606's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWStewart View Post
    Nice to log on and get my fix! The car looks in fine fettle, Mike.
    Cheers Mark

    Well a decent afternoon weather wise here and whilst no bumper and a few minor things to sort, so undriveable on the road, I thought Iíd start her up on the drive and check she still works.....

    In summary, it all went really well.....well sort of and Iíll come back to that ;)

    As a recap, Iíve fitted/checked;
    New clutch release bearing,
    New release bearing springs,
    Clutch check and clean,
    Oil change,
    Trans oil change,
    Engine and gearbox oil screen check/clean.
    Clutch bleed,
    Refurbished silencer, replacement exhaust outlets,
    New gearbox mounting bush,
    New rear outer lights,
    A general good clean and brush up.

    Firstly I checked the engine ECUís and the TCU for codes.
    The only code present was the brake switch in the TCU (as Iíd powered up without the rear lights fitted to bleed the clutch).
    I reset the code and cranked the engine over whilst immobilised to circ some oil, as it last ran at the end of October.
    I then fired her up and she ran a treat.

    Whilst the ECUís were learning (just left the car to idle away up to cooling fan kick-in) I checked for leaks and the good news there were none [emoji106]

    There was quite a bit of engine bay smoke from residual release oil and from the silencer, which I assumed was the contact adhesive Iíd used to hold the insulation mat in place whilst I refitted the outer skin burning off. Anyway it all soon cleared.

    When it was really hot I dipped the oil and it was just below the lower mark, so another 1/2 litre will do it.
    Iíll also check the gearbox level and top-up before I refit the bumper now the gearbox pump has been run.

    The new silencer stayed cool until the car was quite warm which is a huge improvement on the old one, so a good result. Once Iím totally happy with it, Iíll refurb the original.

    I shunted the car around the drive and the drive take-up was at least as good as before I started, which was a major relief as as Iíve said many times I didnít want to cock it up.
    The clutch closed position settled at about 18.2nm which is what Iíd expected it to....
    I did notice from a graph I took of clutch position whilst moving around that it hunted a bit, particularly on return to neutral and I suspect there is still some air in it. I only partially bled it as I ran out of Donal TX.

    There was also a bit of clutch drag when the car was hot but I intend to take the car in for a proper clutch set-up....
    Earlier in the thread I think Iíd covered how the clutch position changes from Neutral to a gear selected.

    Finally....the fly in the ointment!
    When I first started the car the whine was still there for the first few minutes

    Previously the whine modulated with clutch position and it was only when the car was used in cold conditions say below 10DGC (today was <5 DGC)
    Iím almost certain it was the release bearing and on removal, it was very dry and worn.
    The F1 clutch opens on start-up so it is like sitting in a manual car in N with the clutch in, so the bearing is always under load in N.

    As I didnít rev it or move it before it stopped I couldnít determine if it is clutch related.....
    Iím even beginning the think it might be normal now as the dry clutch is open underneath and I have the undertray off, but Iíve never heard of it before..... #puzzled. Answers on a postcard please....

  7. #117
    Mike01606's Avatar
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    Ran the car again today to check the levels.....

    Iíve decided the noise is nothing to worry about and related to the clutch plates....
    It sound more like a glass being rubbed and Iím thinking it is the friction plate skimming the flywheel/pressure plate when the clutch is open.
    It stopped after the first clutch close as I pulled the car forward.

    The transmission was on the ĎMINí mark.

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    You dip it with the cap resting on the threads not screwed in.

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    About 350ml took it to full and roughly what I measured when I drained it.

    Finally a pic of the discs.....the winter has taken its toll on them ;)

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  8. #118
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    Looks great. Take it for a good run - several hours on mixed roads. See how it is then.

  9. #119
    Mike01606's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MWStewart View Post
    Looks great. Take it for a good run - several hours on mixed roads. See how it is then.
    Thatís what I itching to do Mark....

    I need to fit some PPF to the bumper where the grill rubs and some minor repairs to the underfloor. Then fit them back on.

    Problem it is SORN for the first time in my ownership and Iím away most of March so I think it will be 1st April unless the weather in late March is good.
    I need to get it fully tested for the Wales Weekend but Iím sure itís good to go...

  10. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    Thatís what I itching to do Mark....

    I need to fit some PPF to the bumper where the grill rubs and some minor repairs to the underfloor. Then fit them back on.

    Problem it is SORN for the first time in my ownership and Iím away most of March so I think it will be 1st April unless the weather in late March is good.
    I need to get it fully tested for the Wales Weekend but Iím sure itís good to go...
    I'm sure, too

    I've used self-adhesive felt strips along the top of the wings where it meets the bumper. I'm sure some thick PPF will work, too.

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